Paper modeling or just art? User Name Remember Me? Bismarck Halinski. Check this out: WWW.

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Hi all. She was sunk on 23rd of May I had a lot of fun with that kit and found every aspect of it from design, printing and even the instructions to be excellent. A bonus in this kit is that there is a separate sheet of instructions in English, so I won't be needing Google Translate this time. Although I rarely looked at the written instructions anyway , mostly I just used the photos.

There are 20 sheets of printed parts. The number of parts on each sheet range from 5 to well over , depending on their size :. I also bought the Laser-cut set of frames etc. There are 14 different sheets, but also about 6 of them have two identical sheets - some or most of the parts are probably glued together to double their thickness :.

I've finished all the initial preparations. I bought two A3 size Display Books to hold all the separate sheets of parts :. The instructions are mostly in the form of computer rendered pictures which I found much easier to work with than the very poor line-drawings in the Bismarck kit :.

My final preparation - and one I've found to be invaluable on previous Card kits - was to spend two days cataloguing every part on all the sheets into a Spreadsheet sorted into numerical order with the Sheet Number next to the part. This is quite a lot of work there are 6 pages of the spreadsheet , but it saves A LOT of time later when searching for parts. Rather than search through all 34 sheets for one small part I can find it in seconds by knowing which sheet to look through :.

On with the REAL work. Thanks Mark. The spreadsheet was one of the best ideas I've ever had. I figure it will save about 6 months worth of searching for parts over the course of the build. I was right about the doubled-up laser-cut framing sheets - I've glued a couple together not much to see yet and come to the conclusion that I won't need to glue any extra card to the sides of bulkheads etc for a wider gluing surface like I've had to do on previous builds.

What a bonus. I did this on both the previous models, and had no problems with accidentally crushing the skins. I can already feel that this will be a really good Card model to build. I'm in, too. And in the front row! That spreadsheet is a spot on idea.

I've read that Halinski is a top shelf company. This paper modelling is pritty dark, it does miss the priming, and painting, but the PE is just as horrendous as on plastic!! Another trick I used for tracking parts is to separate numbered parts from their sheets and sort them into zip lock bags, numbers in one bag, in another, etc. Works for people who dread spreadsheets.

Ken, they're one of the best IMO. Not a bad idea either Chris. Actually, that's what my display folders are for - after cutting the parts I need from a sheet I return it to it's numbered clear plastic pocket until the next time I need it.

You don't let the grass grow, do you Danny? I'm looking forward to following another of your fabulous card builds. Yep, I made the spreadsheet as soon as Bismarck was finished. Welcome Jan and John. I've gone a fair way into building the framework. Here are the four sections. I've also discovered that I won't need to make any extra bracing between the bulkheads - they are supplied in the kit.

I haven't fitted any of them yet, I will need to fit the sections together first :. So far the design has been brilliant. It's mm long, almost exactly the same as Bismarck. I've finished all the framing - already. This has only taken me a bit over two days, compared to the identical sized Bismarck which took me over a week.

GPM's were really sloppily cut. This framing has also turned out near perfect :. Unlike the instructions in Bismarck, Halinski have you fit the precut Deck sections to the hull at this stage - without gluing the printed decks to them.

This will make things a lot easier, as there's no chance of damaging the decks while fairing and hull skinning with the hull upside-down :. I've added extra card for Fillers at both bow and stern. Initial trimming was done with a scalpel, finished off with a grit sanding stick :. I finally worked it out - there is a "joining strip" between the skins that fits into the notch. This is a good idea, as it gives me a larger gluing surface for the edges, and it's also grey so any slight gaps won't be as noticable :.

I started the hull skinning yesterday, starting at the bow. The fit of the skins is very good, but I still managed to mis-align the first one resulting in a step on the next. The "step" in question is the one on the right in the pic below - the left one is actually OK, as there is a shift in the skins at that point. The first skin only needs to be a fraction of a millimetre off to cause problems later. I've managed to get back on line however :.

First off, the Fairing on each bulkhead needs to be spot-on. Even with the excellent laser cutting of the framing they still need a bit of work to make sure there is absolutely no step between the two glued-together bulkheads. I used a combination of sanding and filling with thin paper to get them right. Next is to pre-shape each skin as near as possible to it's final shape.

I sit the skin in place and mark the bends. Then I use a round item - in this case a knitting needle - and a piece of high-density foam underneath the skin to shape it :. Last is the amount of glue I use. Just a small bead on each outer edge.

Any more will result in the skin being pulled out of shape. This amount of glue is more than sufficient to hold the skin.

Any excess that squeezes out is immediately cleaned off with a small paintbrush :. I do each skin in three stages - first the middle, aligning the centre marks, then one side followed by the other. So far, so good. HMS Hood: A step by step guide Looking good dispite the oeps at the bow, if you hadn't told me I wouldn't have noticed. Certainly Halinski looks like a class act. Thanks for the free lessons in card model construction, Dan!

Thank you Carl and David. These are waterproof and acid-free, and come in a large range of colours. I use the Brush tips :. There is some unfortunate printing on the lower skins. The difference in colours is quite evident here :.

I use those archive pens too No I'm not going to try to blend in the darker colour red or brown? I'm going to attempt to make this model without ANY filler or paint, other than edge-colouring and of course PE. Just for the challenge. BTW - I reserve the right to change my mind later on if it bugs me. I would too to be honest. You can post now and register later.

If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.

We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.

The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Search In.


From-Paper.com - paper models








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